The beaver is a proud and noble animal
Notes from a bemused canuck
Katy and I went for our delayed anniversary dinner at Le Motty, à restaurant noted for its fall game menu. I had a pigeon and foie gras terrine, followed by wild board tenderloin and an ice cream sundae for dessert. Katy had a quail terrine, with deer steak and meringues with cream and chocolate sauce. We’re both stuffed. Plus, you have to love a place that gives you two complete servings of your entrée…
Franken-pastries have been the rage of the baking world for a while. The most famous mashup, Dominique Ansel’s Cronut, launched a craze that has inspired imitators and innovators alike. Now, we are throwing down the gauntlet with an entirely new creation: the babkallah, a babka/challah fusion that may just be the only thing you need to bake for the holidays.
Ingredients
Dough
1.2 cup whole milk
1 1/4-oz. envelope active dry yeast
4 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted, cooled, plus more
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
Filling And Assembly
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/3 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
All-purpose flour (for surface)
1/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1 large egg yolk
Granulated sugar (for sprinkling)
Dough
Heat milk in a small saucepan until warm. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in yeast; let sit until foamy, 5–10 minutes.
Whisk in egg yolks, vanilla, and 1/2 cup butter. Add sugar, salt, and 3 cups flour; mix until a shaggy dough forms. Knead dough on a lightly floured surface until supple, smooth, and no longer shiny, 5–10 minutes.
Transfer to a large buttered bowl. Cover and let sit in a warm place until doubled in size, 1.5-2.5 hours.
Filling And Assembly
Mix chocolate, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a small bowl.
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; divide into three portions. Shape each into a 12”-long rope. Roll out each rope to a 12×6” rectangle about 1/8” thick. Brush with butter and top with chocolate mixture, pressing gently. Roll up to form a log; pinch seam to seal.
Place logs, seam side down, side by side on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pinch logs together at one end; braid, then pinch ends together and tuck under. Cover loosely and let sit in a warm place until 1.5 times larger, 1–2 hours.
Preheat oven to 350°. Beat egg yolk with 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Brush dough with egg wash; sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake until top is golden brown and “Babkallah” sounds hollow when bottom is tapped, 35–45 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
Ingredients
1 cup apple cider
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/4 cup buttermilk
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
Vegetable oil, for frying
Directions
In a small saucepan over medium heat, gently reduce apple cider to about 1/4 cup, 20 to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg in a bowl; set aside.
Using an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and 1/2 cup granulated sugar until smooth. Add the egg and continue to beat until the egg is completely incorporated. Use a spatula to occasionally scrape down sides of bowl. Reduce speed to low and gradually add 2 tablespoons reduced apple cider and the buttermilk, mixing just until combined. Add the flour mixture and continue to mix just until dough comes together.
Sprinkle a piece of parchment generously with flour. Turn dough onto sheet and sprinkle the top with flour. Flatten dough with your hands until it is about 1/2 inch thick. (Use more flour if the dough is still wet.) Place on a baking sheet and wrap tightly in plastic. Refrigerate overnight.
Roll dough to 1/4 inch thick. Using a 1 1/2-inch round cutter, cut out doughnuts. Using the 1/2-inch round end of a pastry tip, cut out centers. Place on a parchment-lined and flour-dusted baking sheet. Refrigerate doughnuts for 20 to 30 minutes.
While doughnuts are resting, whisk together the remaining reduced cider and the confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl to make the glaze. Stir together 2 tablespoons granulated sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon in a small bowl for dusting.
Fill a deep-sided pan with 3 inches of oil. Heat over medium heat until oil reaches 360 degrees on a candy thermometer.
Line a baking sheet with several layers of paper towels. Carefully add a few doughnuts to the oil, being careful not to crowd the pan, and fry until golden brown, about 60 seconds. Turn doughnuts over and fry until the other side is golden, 30 to 60 seconds. Drain on paper towels. Dip the tops of the warm doughnuts into the glaze, or coat entire doughnuts with cinnamon-sugar mixture. Serve immediately.
This. This is an actual headline. This is why I love England.
From the article:
A bow-tie wearing duck has been injured in a drunken pub brawl with a local dog in Chulmleigh, Devon. The booze-loving bird, affectionately named Star, was enjoying a pint in The Old Courthouse Inn with his handler, Barrie Hayman, when Hayman’s canine Meggie sparked a bar brawl. Star was left with injuries to his beak after the fight.
“Star pushed his luck too far and Meggie snapped – splitting Star’s bottom beak right down the middle,” Hayman, 69, told the Cheddar Valley Gazette. “He gave her a stare, then promptly stood on her back. It was not pretty and not nice. We were so scared we would lose Star. He had to be rushed to the vets and go under anaesthetic, which is always risky and could go either way with ducks and other small animals. Thankfully our Star is a tough cookie and it looks like he came out okay.”
Hayman has cared for Star ever since he was a chick, carrying him around in his pocket. Once the duckling grew up, he developed a taste for real ale and started following his owner to the pub. “He just won’t leave me and so we go everywhere together,” Hayman said. “I’ve not trained him to follow me. He just seems to like it and he is one fantastic duck. He loves to come to the pub, where everyone loves him. He is such a personality and attracts so much attention.”
Bean lent me his new hat. I have to say, I’m rocking this new look.
Everyone knows (and loves) this classic recipe for slow cooker meatballs simmered with chili sauce and grape jelly. I’m certain you’ve had these at a party, served right out of a slow cooker or on a heated tray, speared on toothpicks and dripping with their sweet, tangy, peppery sauce.
For the meatballs:
2 slices fresh white bread
1/4 cup milk
3 tablespoons clarified butter, divided
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
A pinch plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 pound ground beef
3/4 pound ground pork
2 large egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
For the sauce:
2 cups bottled chili sauce
1 cup grape jelly
1-2 tablespoons bourbon (optional)
Tear the bread into pieces and place in a small mixing bowl along with the milk. Set aside.
In a 12-inch straight sided saute pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and sweat until the onions are soft. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the bread and milk mixture, beef, pork, egg yolks, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, black pepper, allspice, nutmeg, and onions. Mix well.
Using a scale, weigh meatballs into 1-ounce portions and place on a sheet pan. Using your hands, shape the meatballs into rounds.
Heat the remaining butter in the saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the meatballs and saute until golden brown on all sides, about 7 to 10 minutes.
In the bowl of a slow cooker, combine chili sauce, grape jelly and bourbon. Heat on high until sauce is heated through, about 5 minutes, and whisk to combine thoroughly.
Add meatballs to slow cooker and stir to coat evenly with sauce. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes. Serve immediately.